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Spotlight

Snow, Skuas and Hard Work

Margaret Bradshaw

Two weeks in Antarctica set the seal on the Graduate Certificate in Antarctic Studies course organised by the University of Canterbury. Thirteen students and two tutors spent two weeks in Antarctica, including eight nights camping on the ice.

The time at Scott Base was pretty tight -- field training, learning to survive in a hostile climate, building snow trenches. Learning the hard way that wet mukluk boots left crumpled on the snow froze crumpled and had to be somehow thawed to wear. Ropework, recognising crevasses, remembering sunscreen, riding on sledges.

Drilling sea ice to determine thickness, watching American divers in their fish hole, one complete with Father Christmas hat. Inspecting the New Zealand fish hut. Getting gear ready for the fieldtrip -- heavy work and often cold.

Visiting McMurdo Station to see the Carey Lab, hearing about satellite tracking, seeing a newly found meteorite, freezing in the ice core lab, visiting the wet lab with glum-looking fishes and colourful invertebrates.

Breathing in the atmosphere of Scott's sombre Discovery Hut, so careful not to touch anything, only to absorb the sensation of history. An unexpected trip on Sunday to the historic huts at Cape Evans and Royds, the last trip that season by the Hagglunds all-terrain vehicle across the sea ice. Breathless wonder, silent scrutiny, lots of photographs, nothing touched.

On Wind Vane Hill at Cape Evans, the wind is keen, feldspar crystals in the rocks beside the path glitter brightly in the sun. We approve of the strong brushes mounted by the Antarctic Heritage Trust to clean visitors' boots. We need a torch to inspect the stables and see the names of ponies written on the wooden walls so long ago.

At Cape Royds, a group of curious Adelie penguins come very close to investigate the students, unfazed by the noise of multiple camera shutters. A walk around the penguin colony to the top of the cliffs to watch a long line of waddling penguins going to and from the sea, exchanging gossip as they meet. The ice edge is too far away to see, and we are impressed at the bird's determination.

The American scientists have enclosed a tiny bit of the rookery to study the nesting birds. None of the birds seem worried. A quiet walk through the rocks near the hut. Some ancient stores here and there; a tiny newly hatched penguin from another year lying mummified on the gravel. Noisy skuas, some bathing in the melt pools, but their nests so difficult to see amongst the rocks.

Then out to the Windless Bight to erect camp. Two lines of four polar tents converge on two Polar Havens, and the arms of the camp open out towards a glorious view of gently smoking Mount Erebus. The snow is soft, but there is no wind, and spirits are high. It's not long before the artistic enterprise of many of the students show through.

"Cooking wells" are deeply dug, with snow benches, and shelves cut in the snow walls. A snowhenge decorates the walls and a very realistic snow sofa resides in front of a tent, facing the view. One of the Polar Havens is decorated for Christmas, although these large tents were seldom used except for storage, radio skeds and detailed recording; the weather outside was too good.

Snow, Skuas and Hard Work Figure A (34KB)
Tim Pearn and Kathryn Yussof relax on their snow sofa -- a brief breather during a hectic 14-day study trip to Antarctica. Photo: Margaret Bradshaw

Human waste is carefully containerised; "grey water" (cooking and washing up water) is stored separately after being strained. A special kerosene filling station is established to protect the snow from spillages. Areas for snow block collection are marked with flags as "no-go-areas". Boxed frozen food from Scott Base is buried and marked.

Camp was in the middle of a great flat plain of white quite a distance south of Hut Point Peninsula. No matter how far one trudged away from camp, it always seemed to remain close. On some nights the camp seemed to be ringed with tiny solitary figures who had radiated outwards to experience the isolation of white vastness; some to write their dairies or poetry, some to paint or sketch, some to think, some just to lie and look up at the sky.

Each day two Hagglunds, driven by Ross Hickey, Dean Arthur of the Field Training staff, or Ewan Paterson, the Field Support Officer, would arrive from Scott Base to take the party to the field areas on Hut Point Peninsula. The students were split into two groups. Each group had to spend two days, not always in kind weather, on the detailed geology of Castle Rock, a precipitous 413-metre high volcanic vent on the crest of the ridge. A fixed rope was set up to help students safely to the top of the crag for a fine viewpoint. Each group also visited Hutton Cliffs for two days to identify tagged seals to compare with those found there the previous season. Life below the sea ice was also studied.

Two further studies were undertaken in the field by the field. One was the regular monitoring of weather data at the base camp and the degree of "human comfort" experienced. The other was an ongoing psychological study about Antarctic expectations, in which the students interviewed each other before, during and after their Antarctic visit to analyse changes of outlook.

The party completed the fieldwork by the end of 24 December and the growing Christmas spirit was aided by a visit from Father Christmas himself (Kevin Chappell, Base Engineer) and his elf helper (Scott Iremonger, Base Mechanic), with a Hagglund substituted for the sleigh. The fresh fruit in Santas's sack was greatly appreciated.

Christmas dinner was organised totally by the students and was a great success. All available primuses were congregated in the Polar Havens or on a table outside, and a mass cook up took place, fortunately in perfect weather. Using food and fresh vegetables delivered the previous day, a veritable feast was prepared. The energetic carved an enormous table out of unblemished snow, with snow benches along two sides, a seat at the head for "the Boss" and at the opposite end, one for "absent friends".

The party was joined by a curious skua who definitely had his eye on the two turkeys! Speeches and toasts preceded and followed the meal, token presents were distributed "Captain Scott" style. Photographs were taken for posterity.

Then there was a rush to get a mammoth wash-up done and kitchen boxes returned to tents before the arrival of the three Hagglunds from Scott Base to take the students, with Scott Base staff, to the Imax Crevasse. This was an enormously deep, narrow crevasse on the side of Mount Erebus, well bridged and accessible at one of its ends.

Five groups of people, each safely roped up, were guided in and out of the long, very cold crevasse, and the exercise was a credit to Scott Base Operations Manager, Pete Cleary, and his staff Ross Hickey, Dean Arthur and Ewan Paterson.

Boxing Day was a day off for the students. Some carved a three dimensional 2000 into the snow for a visiting film crew. Others helped on the ski field where an emerging crevasse needed to be bridged with plywood and the rope pulley moved across to the protected slope. Others skied, climbed back up Hut Point Peninsula or relaxed at K396 Base. That night the Polar Havens were dismantled and everything packed up apart from equipment needed for the final night and breakfast. When the Hagglunds arrived at 9.00 the next morning in flat grey weather, the party was ready, with tents struck and equipment neatly stacked.

The "Waste Management Officer", Graham Mackereth, produced some unexpected figures for the 119 man-days that the party had been in the field: 403 kg of waste had been produced; 208 kg of this was human waste, 144 kg was grey water and the remainder was "rubbish". This was far more than Antarctica New Zealand had predicted (and supplied bags for!) and the exercise was a useful one for the future management of snow-based field parties who plan to leave nothing behind them at all.

Snow, Skuas and Hard Work Figure B (31KB)
Father Christmas arrives on a Hagglund all-terrain vehicle when travelling in the Antarctic. Lighter moments help break the ice for students studying in the field. Photo courtesy of Margaret Bradshaw

Dr Margaret Bradshaw is a geologist who has spent considerable time in Antarctica.